At the beginning, feel the everyday tourists life in the main parking of Valldemossa: Crowds of people with giant lenses, fanny pack and sunhat flock to the opposite place. Not so you, keep left towards Palma. Parallel above the main road you leave the place and dive into the true flair of the Tramuntana.
For now the road leads through a well maintained residential area and soon left into a wide forest path. It goes through almond and olive plantations, past some fincas and lots of sheep. The silhouette of Valldemossa lies behind and the imposing massif in front of you. For about 3 kilometers, the flat gravel path goes back to the mountains and across the valley.
That was Valldemossa from afar, now we plunge into the place!
Follow the main road 200 meters uphill and then left down the stairs. Here in the lower village you can find what few tourists discover: the genuine quaint, flower-filled streets of Valldemossa, where the doors of the townhouses are open, the view extends into the living room and illuminated tiny lanterns above the doorways at dusk. Each house is decorated with a tile. It shows scenes of life of Santa Catalina Thomás, the patron saint of Valldemossa, who greets you at the fountain next to the church of Sant Bartomeu as a statue.
The life of the devout Catalina will take you further down the village, past a blessed grotto, country homes and stubborn mules. In a loop, the road leads up again, now with a breathtaking view of the monastery, church and Tramuntana mountains.
Back on the "tourist route" in the upper village, let´s make a final detour to the most beautiful view of the island's capital. Right next to the pharmacy leads a paved path in a medieval seeming dead end street. At the end of the cul-de-sac, take a outdoor seat at restaurant Troya, order a glass of wine and enjoy the view of Palma Bay.
Our tip: Valldemossa is most beautiful in the late afternoon and evening. Then the locals populate the place, the true life awakens and the streets shimmer in a scary-romantic light.
Valldemossa can be reached by rental car from Puerto de Soller (40 minutes, 24 kilometers) or alternatively by bus via Soller.
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